Great Ocean Rd, Another Ramble

Day One - Tuesday

Once again I'm on what is known locally as the GOR, the Great Ocean Road which stretches (arguably) from Torquay through to Point Nelson in the states west. Officially it's shorter than that but in reality it keeps going into South Australia for ages.

My goal this trip is to get shots of Wreck Beach that I'm happy with, I've never come away with shots that make me properly pleased with the results.

On Friday morning I'll be on the beach before dawn... but in the mean time I'm camped out at my usual base and trundling around exploring and shooting.





The setting sun highlights the amazing harsh coast line where the Southern Ocean slowly makes Australia smaller. Many ships were wrecked along this forbidding line of tall cliffs. This is shot from the end of one of the many dirt tracks that take the intrepid away from the bus loads of tourists and the city drivers who can't stand the idea of a dirt track. This view shows Lochard Gorge and the 12 Apostles (well about 8.5 of them) in the distance. f/16 1/13th of a second ISO 50 on a 50mm prime.





This is the same location as the previous shot but somewhat later after the sun had gone and with slightly different framing but the same 50mm lens f/16 30 seconds ISO 50. For best results keep your ISO low and expose for the surroundings. This long exposure really captures the might of the ocean as it slowly beats Australia into submission. Even sitting here in my van typing this blog I can hear the waves crashing on the beach over 1km away from me. The Southern Ocean is not to be trifled with. Even in calm weather like today these waves broke half way up the cliff.





Even after dark there are still shots to be had. This is a crop at 1:1 of a very small area of the image showing the sea mists back lit by the sky still slightly glowing from the setting sun. As +Lady Fran W put it this is like a pirate movie. I can see her point, you can almost expect the fulsom figure of the carved wooden maiden adorning the bow sprit of a tall ship to come into view as she rounds the rocks heading in for a secret rendezvous for the purposes of smuggling. 85mm f/16 13 seconds at ISO 125.

On reviewing my shots today I could see the results of coming here so many times. I shot only a few and of those I'm happy with all of them. I'm coming to know this area well and know what I want before I shoot and I've learned over many trips how to get the outcome I'm looking for. On this trip apart from Wreck Beach on Friday morning where sunrise, weather and tides all come together at the right moment I have no plans and will take each day as it comes.

Finishing up these images and this blog entry while I wait for my back up to finish I listen to the rain falling on the roof of my van and think of the other Melbourne photographers camped nearby in their tents. Keep warm folks. It's an early start on Gibsons Steps tomorrow to capture the early morning light on the nearby Apostle and hopefully catching up with a local.

Day Two - Exploring

Naturally visiting the 12 Apostles has to be done sooner or later when visiting the #gor - best seen in the early or late afternoon for the best light minimising the contrast between sky water and rock to allow normal exposures.

12mm fish, 1/160th f/11 ISO 100

The little things matter. While climbing back up Gibson's Steps I noticed this little bush growing on the rocks backlit by the sun. A heavy sea mist in the air made for some nice flaring.

1/600th f/4 85mm ISO 400

While exploring around the timber railway trestle bridge (now rail trail) near Timboon I found this small waterfall on a creek that runs parallel to the former railway. Worth getting the feet a bit wet for this scene.

12mm fish f/11 0.5s ISO 50

Still standing after some TLC from Puffing Billy Railway the railway trestle at Timboon stands proud supporting the rail trail.

12mm fish, 1/30th, f/11 ISO 50

The serenity of the Australian rural scene is often amazing and breathtaking. It's worth pulling over from time to time when you spot something. Everyone fanned out looking for their shot. This one is mine.

12mm fish, 1/125th, f/11 ISO 100

After enjoying a lunch with friends at Timboon we parted company with Kathryn and headed back to our camping at Princetown. It was great to meet another g+ person +Kathryn van Nieuwkerk . In this image are back row - +Paul Pavlinovich +Trace McLean Stef +Peter Sherriff +Kathryn van Nieuwkerk and +Shari Mattox

We had lunch at the distillery and I can't say I recommend it. The service was good. The food was ok but the prices were high for what was essentially pub food. They may aspire to higher foodie paradise but they don't quite make it. Oh and their whiskey? I'll stick with my usual I think. Very expensive ($125 for 500ml) and nothing to write home about.

On the way back the evening light became interesting and we paused several times on our journey to explore and photograph our surroundings. This grass seed silhouette intrigued me. I played around with the landscape in this area but was not happy with the shots. They don't feel quite right. I'll come back to them later.

85mm 1/640th f/11 ISO 100

We headed along part of the Old Ocean Road in Princetown along the Gellibrand River. We found this amazing white bird. I had to push up the ISO to capture his flight in the fading gentle evening light. It's always worth getting off the tourist drag of the main road. There is MUCH more to be seen in this area by simply hitting the dirt.

85mm 1/400th f/5.6 ISO 800

Finally at the end of the day, the sky put on a magnificent show over the flood plains and wetlands alongside the Old Ocean Road in Princetown.

I've seen this area well and truly inundated - the camp ground is on this plain but it's elevated slightly so it's unusual for it to flood but I've seen the road in and much of the grounds wet and sloshy in the past. This usually only happens if the mouth of the Gellibrand gets closed off by a storm.

12mm fish 1/4s f/11 ISO 50

What will tomorrow bring? Well you know that as much as I do. No plans, I'll just jump in the car and go someplace. Something will jump out and magic will happen.

I might explore a bit more around Timboon and the Otway National Park.

Day Three - A few waterfalls and a smashed fishie

Today started like any of my photography trips, up early hunting for images. I found these kangaroos on the hop right outside of the door to where I'm camping.

On the hop in the early morning light in the paddock adjacent the camp ground. There were hundreds of them today. 

400mm 1/250 f/9 iso 2500

In search of mossy rocks and falling water I trekked down to the Elliot River where it runs into the Southern Ocean. Up stream from the mouth reached by good old fashioned bush bashing was a small but magic waterfall. I had to wade through the river to get close enough for the final images of the falls.

12mm fishie 0.5 seconds f/16 iso 50

Onwards and upwards to Mariner Falls. These falls are currently "closed" but the sign said public "should" keep out. Well, that's not a no in my book. That leaves the decision to me and I decided to go. Very well worth the trek and apart from needing to cross the river by wading from time to time an easy walk. The falls are in a natural amphitheatre bowl.

12mm fishie 1 second f/16 iso 50

Near Mariner Falls I waded into the river on a few occasions to capture mossy rocks. I like mossy green rocks in nice natural light. No idea why, I just do.

12mm fishie 1.3 seconds f/16 iso 50

On the road from Apollo Bay to Beech Forest is a California Redwood Sequoia grove. They were planted in the 1930's as an experiment and they are truly magnificent today. Even though these are giants they are but babies compared to some I saw in their natural home. There is no sound at all in the forest. It's simply silent.

12mm fishie 15 seconds f/22 iso 50

The final stop for the day and the last shot that this fishie will ever take before it is repaired. This is Hopetoun Falls. I had hoped to get here last trip but the storm tore up the joint and there were police keeping people away at the road entrance. This time round I make the climb down the stairs and made it all the way to the falls. While out there I slipped and fell. The camera and the fishie hit a rock. The camera survived with nothing more than a new battle scar but the fishie, well it kind of exploded. I've managed to put it back together for tomorrow with glue and tape. It's now jammed about f/11 or so until I can get it properly repaired.

12mm fishie 1.6 seconds f/16 iso 50

Tomorrow Wreck Beach and who knows what else. The last full day of the trip.

Day Four - Getting Wrecked

I met up again with +Trace McLean and Stef early this morning on Moonlight Head to make our way down to Wreck Beach. Well, actually they got there an hour early and went without me... We met on the beach and did a mad dash in and out of the waves to capture the anchors and surrounding rock formations. 

In the early light I did some long exposures to capture the anchors appearing out of the spooky "mist" .

24-105 @ 105mm f/22 with black glass 30 seconds ISO 50

The anchors are welded into the rock by the force of the many storms, the first of which jammed them in there. They both sit within circular holes. A line of holes lead to the most prominent anchor. These circular holes are always the ones that are most noticeable in Wreck Beach photographs. They used to have a brilliant verdant green moss growing on them but it wasn't there this time. The rocks seem to have been scrubbed clean.

50mm 1/250th f/11 iso 50

I diced with the Southern Ocean many times before just giving up and letting it soak me while continuing to photograph. This made it much easier and more productive and I need new boots anyway since these ones had started to fall apart. They'd done a lot of km and will do some more yet but this will be one of the final nails in their coffin. One day I'll just go there in shorts and crocks. Wet up my balls in the sea on a photo expedition... what a surprise.

50mm 1/80th f/10 iso 400

Once the sun comes up properly and highlights the anchors they're much less creepy but no less poignant as they symbolise the loss of life on what is known locally as The Shipwreck Coast. Many vessels were smashed to pieces along this coast. Generally when this happened all souls were lost except in a few very lucky cases.

50mm 1/6th f/22 iso 50

Once the sun came up Wreck Beach got less interesting not to mention the tide was on the way in and I was wet enough. Off back to camp ground via the Old Ocean Road. I'm sure I've mentioned when on the GOR that you should take every opportunity to get off it to escape the tourists. They drive really slowly and really badly. Following the Old Ocean Road isn't quicker but it's soothing and much nicer to look at.

12mm fishie (repaired, sort of) 1/100th f/11 (I think) iso 50

While off the road you'll see many coastal rural scenes including the ubiquitous windmills. These beasts creak and strain as they spin in the breeze to pump up water from the wells or in this case the nearby creek. In this area there were major local makers in Warrnambool and Colac both very nearby so it's unusual to find not one but many Queensland made Southern Cross mills in abundance. The local dealer must have made great deals with the farmers to get so many of them out there despite the local competition.

12mm fishie 1/80th f/11 iso 100

This has to be the creepiest road of all time with those trees bending over to try and get you. I could only imagine what it would be like in the early dawn light especially if there was a light mist at ground level. Spooky. 

12mm fishie 1/160th f/11 iso 640

After lunch I went for a cruise to Ayre River (or is it Aire River?) anyway... I didn't have any plans as I'd hit my target sites for this week, not to mention my boots were still soaked so I needed places I could go in Ug Boots without getting laughed at. Turns out that's about everywhere around here. Down by the two camp grounds that are separated by a bridge and personality (bogans with massive fires, guns, music and loads of booze on one side and the families and quieter back packers on the other side) I found a couple of girls going out for a paddle. Well they would but they were simply going around and around in circles while their dad yelled "encouragement" to them from the bridge.

400mm (200 + 2X extender) 1/400th f/16 iso 1000

On the way back up the hill I stopped to chat up this beautiful bird who was showing off by the side of the road. I was pretty lucky to get this shot hand held resting on the door sill.

400mm 1/80th f/16 iso 1000

Even hideous English Bracken (why did those dick heads bring so much stuff that has invaded and destroyed so much of this land?)  looks good back lit with a ray of sunlight shafting down through the overhead canopy.

330mm 1/500th f/5.6 iso 2500

Leaving the river I decided to shoot some bull with a local man who was working in his field. The diversity of the farming around here is phenomenal they have both kinds. Cows and sheep.

400mm 1/500th f/9 iso 400

After a while I thought I'd take in a lawn bowls match being played by giants on the green of the pitch alongside the river along The Old Ocean Rd near Princetown.

400mm 1/160th f/9 iso 400

This image reminded me of this morning trying to stop my berries from getting wet. Such simple subject becomes quite magic with a limited depth of field and shot up close with a telephoto lens. As I type this entry I can't help but hear the conversation between the two girls in the bongo van camped next to me. One of them is crying and the other is continuing to explain that she doesn't feel "that way" towards her at all and is sorry she ever came along on the trip. I'm tipping an early end or a very awkward few days along the coast for these two.

400mm 1/60th f/5.6 iso 400

As the last of the light started to die in the thick clouds (no nice sunset tonight) I came across this group of swans floating around on the swamp. This same swamp produces the massive mozzies that frequent the rich persons camp ground above where I stay and attack +Peter Sherriff .

400mm 1/640th f/7.1 iso 2500 balanced on a fence post

Every day should end with a little weed. This grass/reed seed was  highlighted from behind with the last of the receding light before the world went grey and I gave up and came back to the van to watch a movie.

400mm 1/500th f/7.1 iso 2500

The Great Ocean Road - A Natural Wonder - The Annual Pilgrimage

The Great Ocean Road

Once each year I head off somewhere along the coast line of Victoria. I camp out and pursue photography. My favourite destination is Victoria's natural wonder the coastline along The Great Ocean Road. Whoever named this road certainly wasn't an idiot. You get everything, curves, hills, beaches, forests, cliffs, small towns, the works. Why do I take this time out of life? Simple really everyone needs to unwind and this is the way I do it. I love the coast and I love photography. Mixing the two, well that's just fun really. There is magic to be found along that simple road.

To experience the GOR I'd suggest you really experience it don't just drive along it. Camp. Walk. Live. Enjoy.

I love to camp somewhere along the road along the cliff tops. Along most of it camping isn't allowed but there are spots where you can as long as you're not in a motor home or caravan. Mind you if you go easy on the light no-one would ever know you're there and I've not encountered any night patrols.

One of the Twelve Apostles Seen from a cliff top vantage at sunset

Mostly when people think of the GOR they think of The Twelve Apostles, of which there are only eight still standing. You could go to the concrete monstrosity that is the tourist trap with the thousands of others, or you could go to one of the nearby cliffs for your viewing. I know which I prefer.  Leave that asphalt road every chance you get. Those dirt roads off towards the cliffs bring you the real coast without the tourists. Be safe the cliffs do collapse from time to time.

Anchor embedded in rock at Wreck Beach

I've been known to sleep on the beach to get that dawn shot. Just watch your tides and seek local knowledge because many spots are deep under water at normal high tide. It is a truly magic environment that changes every minute of every day. It's not possible to see, experience or feel that let alone capture it unless you're actually there for the entire time. I have some favorite spots like Wreck Beach and the Bay of Islands.

Wreck beach can be reached via the giant stairs from the carpark at the end of Moonlight Head Road or you can hike along the beach. Wreck

Beach forms part of the lower Great Ocean Walk. It's a serious climb. Take only the photographic gear you need, food and water. Watch your tide times, the entire beach is submerged at high tide and those waves are big. Never turn your back on the sea unless you've got a spotter. Last time I was there I asked my son to warn me about waves while I photographed on the reef. He dutifully did that and warned me a couple of times so I could keep the gear dry. What he didn't warn me about was the tide coming in. I had to wade back to the beach to the sound of his laughing.

 Loch Ard Gorge is simply amazing. The scene of the tragic shipwreck. It's like a tropical paradise and it's possible to swim there much of the year as long as the sun is on the shallow water keeping the frigid ocean at bay.

Much of the gorge is shallow and there is a wonderful sandy beach and two caves. You cannot enter the caves due to falling bits.

Loch Ard is very popular with the tourists. These two were from Brazil and were intent on snapping beach selfies in the water.

The group they were with commented on the expense of accomodation along the road and I told them about Princetown. They moved there that night.






When you need to shop go inland to Hamilton or scoot over to Geelong or Warrnambool - you'll pay through the nose everywhere else. Port Fairy is fantastic at night. So much history. So well lit.

The cheapest places to stay are the community oval at Princetown on the Gellibrand River and the Lady Bay caravan park in Warrnambool.

The Grotto

There are spots along the road, some of them secret, some of them well known tourist spots. On the left is "The Grotto" which is frequented by tourists but conveniently there isn't enough parking for the giant coaches. It's worth spending some time here as the pool is different every time I go. The colour changes throughout the day.

Shot with a circular polariser to allow me to see into the water and a graduated ND filter to balance the exposure of the bright sky against the rock floor and the pool.

The area of the grotto itself is walled off by Parks Victoria to keep our the great unwashed tourista. As a kid I used to swim here and if you went through the grotto with some climbing you could get down to the beach.

At times of heavy storm action the tips of the waves crash right into The Grotto causing all the erosion and rounding the rocks around the pond. Like most things on the GOR it's always changing and sooner or later will collapse.




Generally speaking I stay at Princetown at the community camp ground. It's got basic facilities and is much cheaper than the tourist places.

Floodplain adjacent Princetown community camp ground

The other reason for staying at Princetown is the local scenery.

From dawn the kangaroos abound in the adjacent paddock to the estuary of the Gellibrand River.

There are often gorgeous mists in this ocean valley in the mornings giving an interesting atmosphere to your images and allowing you to hide the houses on the hills around the park.

Be aware you can get flooded in as the bridge in and out is a low causeway. I've had to drive through the water more than once.

Gellibrand River Estuary

The Gellibrand river meanders through a reed bed and into a wide estuary just before it cuts through the pearly white sand of the beach into the sea.

The estuary is salt water and tidal so you can't always walk to the beach unless you want to get your feet wet.

You'll see black cormorants various gulls and the occasional eagle in the area. I've seen snakes on a number of occasions so stick to the sandy areas where you'll see them before they see you.

Surfers at Bells Beach near dawn

Surfers abound along the GOR, you'll find them all along the road. They're generally out early and late so if you want to catch them you'll need to be there when they are.

If you want general imagery you could use a 100mm lens but if you want close up surfing action you're going to need something bigger like a 400mm lens. It's nearly always windy so make sure your lens mount on your tripod is sturdy. You'll need a fast shutter so high ISO is often necessary in the lower light of the post dawn.

Port Fairy Light Station

If you're into lighthouses you're up for a treat, there are plenty of them along the road from Cape Otway, Airey's Inlet through Warrnambool, Port Fairy and beyond.

Some of them like Airey's Inlet are surrounded by tourists all of the time and it can be challenging to get an angle without the people in shot. You can cheat and use a big stopper ND400 (9/10 stop) filter and a long exposure to get rid of them or you just get creative with your angles.

Lighthouses are best photographed in the blue and golden hours near dawn and sunset.

My favourite information source is the LIght Houses of Australia web site http://www.lighthouse.net.au/lights/vic/index%20vic.asp

Some light houses are open for inspection via tours. It pays to book ahead for these so you know the tour will be running and you'll get a chance to look inside. Airey's Inlet is in that category.

Shearing Time

Make sure you approach the locals in various places. They'll give you information that you could not otherwise find and perhaps grant you access to photograph on their land where you'll find some true examples of Australiana such as these shears on a farm in Bellbrae near Bells Beach.

Most of the land along the road is arable farm land generally used for grazing cattle or sheep but in some areas food crops are grown. Never enter property without asking. The owners may not be all that understanding. If you do go in never disturb a fence and always close any gates that you open to avoid release of the farm stock or them moving from a grazing paddock to a food crop paddock. You could cost the farmer his entire income for a year if you bugger that one up.

A few words of warning, the land scape along the GOR varies widely in climate from rain forest through open beach and open farmland. The temperatures change throughout the day dramatically. It can reach freezing at night even in summer. Salty fog and frosts are not unusual in the cooler months be prepared with layers of clothing when you walk. Should you elect to do day walks along parts of the Great Ocean Walk by all means do but always carry water, food and means of communication. There are emergency markers along the trail. It doesn't hurt to write down the number of the nearest so you can be found if you need help. Australia is an unforgiving mistress, treat her with respect and she will reward you. Disrespect her and she will likely kill you.

You'll find the most amazing wildlife along the road. There are eagles and hawks as well as egrets hunting during the day.

Cormorants, penguins, gulls and plenty of other birds will make an appearance.

Kangaroos, wombats, echidnas and other ground animals are everywhere.

Take it easy on the roads at night. One big red and your car is totalled. One wombat and it's likely disabled at best, written off at worst. They're basically hairy rocks.

Hand Feeding a Roo

Near Princetown is a collective cooperative animal preserve run by volunteers. It's well worth a visit with both native and imported species. Donate if you care to help them keep it going. Abandoned by its owners some years back and now operated by a group of volunteers. The park has had much improvement done to it and the volunteers are reorganising the exhibits as time and money permit to be better for the animals. The animals seem quite healthy and as happy as any animal in a zoo.

http://www.greatoceanroadwildlifepark.com/

Drop in and visit, you can certainly get up close and personal with many of the animals. Your money goes right back into running the park. They have backpack and farmstay accomodation. Ignore the closed signs they let us in when they were closed.

My favourite cities on the GOR are Warrnambool, Port Fairy and Portland. Warnrnambool is a fairly modern large town with all the usual supermarkets and amenities. You've got to try the ice cream. Don't leave there without it. There is amazing history in Warrnambool such as this historic bridge. Make sure you search around because it's well worth a visit.

While you are in Warrnambool a visit to Flagstaff Hill is just about mandatory.

The site conveys Warrnambool of old as a martime port village complete with the Upper Lady Bay and Lady Bay light houses within its grounds. The Upper Lady Bay lighthouse is open for inspection. Both lighthouses are operational.

The village abounds with photographic opportunities and various other attractions. Food and drink are reasonably priced inside. They have a night time entertainment show naturally themed on the ship wreck of the Loch Ard.

Port Fairy is old school and revels in its history. Much of the town is carefully groomed to maintain the heritage look and feel. Portland is an industrial city that has had its share of set backs but continues to exist and offer interest to the traveller.

Wandering around the island that the light house calls home is awesome at night time yielding some wonderful images.

In Portland I stay on top of the hill, again near the light house. The tram car service can take you around the town and is well worth the ride.

The tram is made up of original Melbourne cable tram dolly and trailers that today are powered by diesel engines. The operators are very friendly and they have a small tramway museum. They're not all that friendly to visitors in the workshop which surprised me given I work on another tourist railway.

Portland has all the usual coastal attractions of scenery and wildlife and also boasts the giant aluminium smelter and it's surround infrastructure. These giant transformer robot like towers provide the incoming electricity to the plant. The golden blocks on the ground are the ingots of smelted aluminium. There are plant tours from time to time but they were not operating last time I was there so check ahead.

Portland is also home to a massive community of Australasian Gannets at Point Danger, I believe the largest on shore community in Australia. http://www.offwiththebirds.com/gannett-colony-portland/

Certainly worth a look. Last time I was there the dogs were not present and the fences did not reach the beach so close access was easy without disturbing the birds.


The Great Ocean Road stops officially at Portland but in reality keeps going along the Great Australian Bight into South Australia towards Adelaide.